Paje sits on the south-east coast and has become the centre of kitesurfing in East Africa. The combination is hard to beat: a long shallow lagoon protected by a reef, steady cross-shore wind through the two kite seasons, and a flat sandy bottom safe enough to learn on.
The atmosphere is laid-back and slightly bohemian, popular with backpackers, kite schools and longer-stay visitors. The beach is lined with kite centres, small hotels and beach cafes rather than large resorts.
The tide shapes the day here. At high tide you swim and paddle in the lagoon. At low tide the water pulls right back and vast sandbanks appear, with seaweed farmers working the shallows and long stretches of firm sand for walking. Neither state is a problem once you know to expect it.
Paje is also the closest beach base for Maalum Cave, the deep natural swimming cave a few minutes inland, and for Jozani Forest on the road back toward Stone Town.