Pwani Mchangani sits on the east coast between Kiwengwa and Matemwe, and it has the qualities of both without the resort density of one or the boutique pricing of the other. The name means Sandy Beach, and the description holds: a long, white, largely undeveloped shore backed by fishing villages and casuarina.
The tide dominates the day here as it does along the whole east coast. At high water the lagoon is calm and swimmable. At low water it retreats to expose a wide flat where the seaweed farmers work and the beach stretches out for kilometres of firm walking.
There are a handful of hotels along this stretch, mostly mid-range, with the Mnemba atoll snorkelling grounds a short boat ride away and Kiwengwa’s facilities ten minutes down the coast.
Pwani Mchangani suits travellers who want the east coast beach and the reef access without the crowds, at a lower price than the boutique properties further north.